Fish fried in matzo might give the crisply-coated specimens at this West Hampstead classic a vividly orange hue but it does make the huge portions of cod and haddock extending over the edges of the plate sit more lightly on the stomach. Chips fried in groundnut oil are similarly grease-free and, given that the approach means you can actually taste the fish that you’re eating, halibut or Dover sole are good shouts here, too. If the cherry blue and white frontage isn’t a clue as to the ownership, the hummus, tarama and bottles of Cypriot Keo beer are the giveaway. The owner is Yiannis Tsakouis who came to England 38 years ago and has been running the business for 25 years .
27-29 Fortune Green Road, NW6 1DU, 020 7435 2532
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